Track Basher

One man and his son's quest to cover all the railway lines in the UK. Tales of train travel.
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Scotland 28 - 30 December 2009

Since showing interest in trains number one son has been fixated by sleeper trains. The thought of going to bed while travelling on a train and waking up again after travelling through the night was causing great excitement. As you may have worked out if you have read some of the other pages from this website an annual pilgrimage to the Glasgow Model Railway exhibition takes place each year. The trip normally takes place on the Friday but once again the Welsh and Scottish school holidays are a week out of sync so number one son cannot attend on Friday, he is at school. The trip has to take place on Saturday. West Coast Mainline and weekend travel…….Hmmm always a challenging combination.

Once the December 2009 to May 2010 timetable was made available on the Network Rail website a further problem is discovered. The trip is made more difficult by the improved Virgin Trains high frequency timetable. This service improvement means the London to Glasgow trains no longer stop at Crewe and the connections from South Wales to the north are much worse. The line between Carlisle and Preston closes mid-morning for engineering works on the weekend of the exhibition and you have either a 2 hour bus ride Carlisle to Preston or a trip round the Settle and Carlisle on the way back. The sum effect of these two complications is that you only have about one and a half hours at the exhibition. This is not long enough.

A further study of the timetable is made and it is possible to go on the Friday evening travelling on the Sleeper as far as Aviemore and back on the NXEC HST to Stirling and Glasgow with an earlier arrival at the exhibition than travelling on Saturday morning from South Wales. A trip home over the Settle and Carlisle following the exhibition. This looks like the plan for February 2010.

Number one son has also discovered an interest music and wants to go and see someone called “Lady GaGa”. Don’t think this a heavy rock band! Apparently she has something called a “Poker Face”. Unfortunately no tickets available in Cardiff so Mrs Track Basher books the O2 in London and a hotel on 27 February 2010, then asks you didn’t have anything on this date did you? Errr yes we were going to Glasgow.

Plan B

Could we do the Scottish sleeper trip on the sleeper over Christmas?

Complication number one, the only route out of South Wales over Christmas is the route north to Crewe all other routes are buses because of resignalling work at Severn Tunnel Junction. This makes getting to the sleeper train more difficult. Getting on at Crewe at midnight is not ideal.

My preferred plan is sleeper to Fort William then onward to Mallaig, ferry to Skye, bus back to Kyle of Lochalsh then train to Inverness. Overnight B&B than back home.

On checking the CalMac website it is not possible you cannot get from Armadale to Kyle in time for the last train back to Inverness. This does not work. The plan is reversed sleeper to Inverness and overnight in Fort William. This works! This is going to be an interesting visit to the ticket emporium to try and book this journey.

On visiting the ticket emporium problem number two occurs, no sleepers available to Inverness on 28 December. Back to the drawing board. This leaves two options go on 29 December but this means coming home on New Years Eve. Not the best idea travelling from one end of the country to the other as the railway starts shutting down early, high risk of getting stranded.

A second trip to the friendly ticket emporium is required. 29 December sleepers are available to Inverness and also Aberdeen is available on the 28th.

The most ambitious plan yet is drawn up.

The trip includes:

  • North to South Wales express and we have to eat en route so a reasonably priced First Class advance single at £59 is purchased which includes a 3 course meal! This is a bargain! Number one son also gets half price.

  • Sleeper to Scotland

  • Two of the most scenic lines in the country including the Harry Potter viaduct (Glenfinnen) unfortunately it will be dark
  • Trip down the Northumberland coast

The final plan:

Monday 28/12/2009ArrDepTraction
Neath15:06ATW 175
Cardiff Central15:4716:15ATW 57/3
Crewe18:4219:23VT 390
Watford Jn20:4621:33DBS 90 & 67
Aberdeen07:35
Tuesday 29/12/2009
Aberdeen08:23SR 170
Inverness10:4011:01SR 158
Kyle of Lochalsh13:2614:30Stagecoach Bus (Service 50)
Broadford PO14:5215:55Stagecoach Bus (Service 52)
Armadale Pier16:2516:45Caledonian MacBrayne Ship
Mallaig17:1518:15SR 156
Fort William19:3719:50DBS 67
Roy Bridge20:17

 

Overnight B&B

 

Wednesday 30/12/2009
Roy Bridge08:02SR 156
Glasgow Queen St11:3011:45SR 170
Edinburgh12:3513:00EC 91
York15:3315:44XC 220/221
Birmingham N St18:0718:19LM 170
Worcester S Hill19:1119:45FGW 125
Hereford20:3421:02ATW 175
Neath23:02

 

The final plan revisited.

The final plan ended up changing. A week before the trip was due to take place the UK was gripped by the coldest weather in years and Scotland in particular was hit by heavy snow over a foot deep. A revisit of the plan revealed that there were 4 key trains 21:33 Watford Jn to Aberdeen, 08:23 Aberdeen to Inverness, 11:00 Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. If any of these 3 trains are missed it would not be possible to catch the ferry between Armadale and Mallaig. This would mean it would be virtually impossible to reach the bed and breakfast in Roy Bridge and the entire trip would be compromised. In addition to these trains the 15:44 from York to Birmingham had to be caught. If this train were missed it would have to become a bus journey to get home which we did not want.

A rethink was required. There were two key connections in the journey at Aberdeen and Inverness these were both 20 minutes and the one off the sleeper was particularly risky as they can run very late in poor weather conditions.

The plan was redrawn to add more time to interchange at Inverness rather than Aberdeen. This meant that the sleeper could be up to 3 hours late and the connection would still be made at Inverness.

Monday 28/12/2009ArrDepTraction
Neath14:40FGW HST
Cardiff Central15:2315:26ATW 150
Cardiff Queen St15:3015:36ATW 121
Cardiff Bay15:4015:42ATW 121
Cardiff Queen St15:4615:49ATW 150
Cardiff Central15:5416:15ATW 57/3
Crewe18:4219:23VT 390
Watford Jn20:4621:33DBS 90 & 67
Inverness08:30
Tuesday 29/12/2009
Inverness09:00SR 158
Kyle of Lochalsh11:2812:03SR 158
Attadale12:3712:48SR 158
Kyle of Lochalsh13:2614:30Stagecoach Bus (Service 50)
Broadford Post Office14:5215:55Stagecoach Bus (Service 52)
Armadale Pier16:2516:45Caledonian MacBrayne Ship
Mallaig17:1518:15SR 156
Fort William19:3719:50DBS 67
Roy Bridge20:17
Wednesday 30/12/2009
Roy Bridge08:02SR 156
Glasgow Queen St11:3011:45SR 170
Edinburgh12:3513:00EC 91
York15:3315:44XC 220/221
Birmingham N St18:0718:19LM 170
Worcester S Hill19:1119:45FGW 125
Hereford20:3421:02ATW 175
Neath23:02

 

Another visit to the ticket emporium was required to change to seats between Watford and Inverness as I already knew there were no sleepers available from my last visit. When I went back it appears sleepers had now become available to Inverness so the tickets were exchanged and we can have a sleeper.

Monday 28 December 2009

The weather was still very cold, the snow had gone from South Wales but was still very present in Scotland with more forecast and temperatures of -10°C except for the two days we were going to be there. Temperatures would be around freezing and sunshine forecast.

 
 This is not a Class 121 at Cardiff Bay 28/12/09

There was a slight addition to the plan with a brief trip to Cardiff Bay to allow number one son to go and see the Arriva Trains Wales Class 121 “Bubble Car”. He has never seen this and this was going to be the chance. We arrived at Cardiff Queen St to find no Class 121 but a Class 142. He is not impressed.It was apparently working in the morning but had suffered a broken window earlier in the day.

We get back to Cardiff Central to board the return North to South Wales express. We are looking forward to trying the food. I elect to have the Potato and Leek Soup, Mushroom and Parmesan Risotto and the Cheese Board. Number one son does not fancy any of the choices so is offered Burger and Potato Wedges followed by Ice Cream. The food was very nice and deserving if it’s win in the Rail Magazine catering review. This is also the first time I can remember ever being offered ice cream on a train.

Arrival in Crewe is on time and so is the Virgin Train between Crewe and Watford Jn.

We await the arrival of the sleeper which starts getting later and later on the screens. A quick check of the internet and it has not left Euston. Is farce is about to be begin? I am fortunately

 
 Recommended Lounge Car refreshments
mistaken and the train arrives 15 minutes late. We are not sure which way round the train is going to be lettered and we are the only two passengers joining and we have to walk the full length of the platform as we are stood towards the front and our carriage is off the other end of the platform. We are shown to our cabin and breakfast order taken for the morning. I pack number one son off to bed and head to the lounge car for a beer.

This vehicle is unique as it has around 8 small tables and loose chairs and at the other end 4 sofas fixed to the walls. I elect for a table and have a very pleasant Deuchars IPA.

Head off to bed after leaving Crewe for a very restless nights sleep. I admit defeat at around 06:00 and head back to the lounge car for some coffee.

Tuesday 29 December 2009

 
 Dalwhinnie Station 29/12/09

Although it is still dark outside there appears to be a lot of snow about. At the Blair Atholl stop it becomes clear there is a lot of snow with 12” on the platforms the coldest temperture in the UK was recoreded on this evening near Blair Atholl at -18°C. I sit for a while looking out at the station stops and at 07:30 wake number one son and I ask for our breakfast to be served in the lounge car which is no problem. We sit eating our breakfast and watch the darkness to turn to the first signs of dawn. I had forgotten that the days were shorter in the North compared to the South and the dawn is around an hour later than at home so it is only just coming light when we arrive in Inverness. The scenic journey between Perth and Inverness being in darkness with only the last part of the journey between Moy and Inverness seeing the first light of dawn. The train continues to head north and arrives in Inverness a few minutes early.

On arrival in Inverness snow is falling heavily and there is just enough time to purchase

 
 158707 at Achnasheen 29/12/09
sandwiches for lunch as there is no catering on the Kyle line in the winter. With the train arriving in Inverness on time it is possible to travel down to Kyle, back to Attadale and Kyle again for the second time. In the event of the sleeper being late this portion of the journey would have been omitted and still allowing enough time to make the journey across Skye to reach the ferry.

Departure from Inverness is on time and everything is looking fine until we leave Dingwall and reach the three level crossings after diverging from the Far North line. They are not operating correctly and the train crew have to operate them manually. They are struggling to gain access to the control box as it is frozen shut but eventually after much banging gain access. This process is repeated at the other two crossings. We have only lost around 10 minutes and as the train heads west the snow is getting deeper. The 6” at Inverness has turned into 12” by Achnasheen. The train stops and the conductor announces there will be a delay as the points for

 
 View from the train at Kyle of Lochalsh 29/12/09
the passing loop are frozen. They have obviously been pushed across to the first train in the other direction and not returned to their correct position. The train crew again climb out and sort out the problem.

Arrival in Kyle is 20 minutes late but still in time to leave on time at 12:03 back to Inverness. A quick check of the internet and the 11:00 from Inverness to Kyle is also running on time.

We alight at Attadale and the frost and snow is amazing. The train to take us back to Kyle arrives only 5 minutes late and arrives in Kyle with the same delay. We now have an hour to kill before the departure of the bus and it is very cold with a biting wind. We elect to find somewhere to eat and have tea and cakes. We find Hector’s Bothy opposite the tourist information office. They offer good simple food which is exactly what we are looking for and for the two of us for main meal, cake and drink is less than £15.

 
 Frost at Attadale 29/12/09

We catch the bus to Broadford which has very little to offer around the bus interchange and the only café is closed so go for a very cold walk down to the harbour and back in the hour we have to wait between buses. This bus again arrives on time and takes us across Skye to Armadale Pier.

We head to the Cal-Mac office to purchase our tickets and are asked the “You don’t have a car?” question. No, we came by bus and are on foot. We realise the significance of this as we board the ferry and are the only foot passengers and there are also only 4 cars. The total sum of passengers 10

 
 View at Achnasheen 29/12/09
vastly outnumbered by the crew. We head for the café for drinks and notice they offer reasonably priced meals so elect to eat on the ship rather than seek out food in Mallaig. This has it turns out was a very wise move as by 17:00 Mallaig is closed and not a shop nor place to buy food is open. The food was OK for on ship catering, which can be horrific.

Mallaig has a biting cold wind and after short walk, in an attempt to keep warm, we admit defeat and take shelter behind the station building out of the wind. The train arrival from Glasgow is on time so this is somewhere warm to sit for half an hour out of the wind. This train is very quite and we have one of the two carriages to ourselves for the journey. It is a shame this is in darkness as this is the most scenic line in the UK in my view.

The train we change onto at Fort William is the sleeper to London. It appears there has been a problem with the previous train which has collided with a stag at Spean Bridge and the train has returned to Fort William with it’s passengers. There is only one seating coach on this service but there is more than enough seats to accommodate the passengers from both trains. The passengers off the cancelled train are offered free hot food and drinks. A nice touch from Scotrail. It also appears that other individuality is allowed with the Sleeper Lounge Car being suitably decorated for Christmas.

The train leaves on time and we alight at the request stop of Roy Bridge and leave the sleeper to it’s long journey to London.

As we leave the station we are approached by a lady who it transpires is from the Bed and Breakfast we have booked and has come to meet us as she was concerned about us walking through the deep snow. On arrival we head straight to bed although it is only 21:00. This had been a very long day and all we want to do is go to sleep.

What is noticeable about today is that we have travelled through some of the worse affected areas of the UK for weather disruption and the only delay has been 20 minutes on one train. All the other trains have run on time.

Wednesday 30 December 2009

We have to wake early as there is only one train that will allow us to reach home in the same day. The morning is started with a fine Scottish breakfast. The B&B we had chosen was very nice and included a fine breakfast. This had been the correct decision to carry on a little further the previous evening and not stay in Fort William.

There is still 8” of snow in Roy Bridge but we decide to walk back to the station. It is only a 10 minute walk. The weather is still very cold. Despite the continuing poor weather the train arrives on time and we join with the 4 other passengers. The train is quite lightly loaded.

The train continues beyond Tulloch the line climbs up towards the summit at Corrour and across Rannoch moor. There is already a foot of snow and more is falling heavily. We are due to pass the sleeper from London at Rannoch so there could be a delay here. We pass through the Rannoch snow shed and down into the station where the sleeper is already waiting to continue towards Fort William. There will not be a delay.

As we approach Crainlarich the snow is still present but beginning to thin with only 8” again. As we

 
156485 at Crainlarich 30/12/09
continue south the thinning continues and by Helensburgh it is a light dusting. The train reaches Glasgow a few minutes early and we manage to catch the 11:30 across to Edinburgh rather than the 11:45. This train is very busy despite the trains running every 15 minutes.

Have a quick check of the timetable and there is a 12:30 to York we can catch rather than the 13:00 we were planning and make an earlier connection to Birmingham. It appears there are other passengers looking for this train as the conductor announces the platform number and directions.

On arrival at Edinburgh we head across to the platform which is full of passengers. The train runs in and we attempt to board but it is going to be so full we elect to leave and catch our booked train. On walking back down the platform we realise this is the 11:30 (from Inverness) and not the 12:30 (from Aberdeen). We look at the departure screens which do not mention the 12:30 although we know it has not departed. We are unable to find the train so give up and look for the 13:00. About 5 minutes later we see the 12:30 depart before the delayed 11:30.

The 13:00 arrives and we board the train which is in darkness apart from emergency lighting.

 
 Number one son tries out his photograhic skills
There is then an announcement that the train will have fitters attention due to no heating or lighting. This has all the hallmarks of an impending cancellation. We only have a 10 minute connection at York and the train comes from Edinburgh at 13:06. We get off the 13:00 and seek out the 13:06 and will travel on this all the way to Birmingham. This was a wise choice as a check of the internet an hour later reveals the 13:00 was cancelled at Edinburgh. If we had missed this connection at York we would have had to gone on the bus between Bristol Parkway and Newport in order to get home.

Catching this train has caused a different problem. It had been planned to have lunch on East Coast. We will have to now see what fine food Cross Country has to offer, which is………. nothing. Not exactly true, Tea, Crisps and Kit Kats are available. How long are we in this train? 5 hours. Silly me for not realising no one is going to want to eat on a train between 13:00 and 18:00 and we should have purchased food at the Edinburgh.

On arrival at Newcastle the HST set we had not elected to catch from Edinburgh is present, cancelled. It does appear that this government controlled franchise is seeing the influence already.

Arrival in Birmingham is on time and we join the London Midland service to Worcester. The conductor is Worcester based and very helpful and directs us towards food in Worcester. We have to make a quick change to make a 1 minute connection at Shrub Hill to get us to Foregate St in order to get to the food.

We need something that can defiantly be cooked in the 30 minutes we have so head for the nearest pizza establishment and back to the station. It has been a long time since breakfast.

The next train is operated by First Great Western and the advertised Buffet service is not present. Arrival at Hereford is on time and so this is the last leg back to Neath.

We have travelled 1,709¾ miles and only travelled one train that was late in some of the most severe weather conditions for many years. This is a fantastic achievement for all the train companies we have used.

An immensely enjoyable trip.

Traction Log:

Monday 28/12/2009
Neath - Cardiff Central43078+43xxx
Cardiff Central - Cardiff Q St142074+142072
Cardiff Q St - Cardiff Bay - Cardiff Q St142075
Cardiff Q St - Cardiff Central150264
Cardiff Central - Shrewsbury - Crewe57313
Crewe - Watford Jn390013
Watford Jn - Edinburgh90035
Tuesday 29/12/2009
Edinburgh - Stirling - Inverness67011
Inverness - Kyle of Lochalsh - Attadale158707
Attadale - Kyle of Lochalsh158719
Mallaig - Fort William156456
Fort William - Roy Bridge67007
Wednesday 30/12/2009
Roy Bridge - Crainlarich156465+156451
Cranlarich - Singer - Glasgow Q St156458+156465+156450
Glasgow Q St - Edinburgh170433
Edinburgh - York - Leeds - Sheffield - Birmingham N St220018+220011
Birmingham N St - Bromsgrove - Worcester S Hill170509
Worcester S Hill - Worcester F St165118
Worcester F St - Hereford43140+43188
Hereford - Cardiff Ctl - Neath158833